Ford F150 2009 2010 2011 L.E.D. Replacement Tail Light Lenses
Full replacement 2009-2011 Ford F150 L.E.D. Tail Light lenses
Here are pictures of our chrome housing Ford F150 L.E.D. tail light lenses
Chrome Housing Ford F150 2009, 2010 & 2011 L.E.D. tail light lenses
Check out our selection of Ford F150 L.E.D. tail light replacement lenses
Back view - Ford F150 2009, 2010 & 2011 L.E.D. Replacement Tail Light Lenses
Side View - 2009-2011 Ford F150 L.E.D. Replacement Tail Light Lenses
Side View - 2009-2011 Ford F150 L.E.D. Replacement Tail Light Lenses
Side view - Ford F150 L.E.D. Replacement Tail Lights
Side view of our chrome housing 2009 Ford F150 L.E.D. Tail Lights
2009 2010 2011 Ford F150 Grill – Billet Grill
Just installed a new upper billet grille and lower bumper billet grille on our 2009 Ford F150 SuperCrew. Took some cutting to get it installed, but it looks sooo much better than the factory grille..
Side view of the upper billet grille, lower bumper billet and aftermarket projector headlights
Shown here - upper and lower billet grille & projector headlights
Nice billet grille - upper and lower side view of F150 2009-2011 Billet Grille & Projector Headlights
Check out MyTightRide.com to order these cool looking F150 grill and after market custom projector headlights!
H.I.D. Headlight Replacement Kits
This his H.I.D. headlight replacement kits explained by the owner during a recent interview:
I usually recommend 4300 Kelvin HID for the brightest light – I have 4300 Kelvin in the high beam and low beam of my projector headlights of my S-Crew. But, 6000 Kelvin & 8000 Kelvin looks pretty sweet! Just so you know, 4300k is the brightest or most powerful (measured in Lumen) and whitest (on the light color spectrum) HID you can get. 6000 Kelvin isn’t as bright as 4300 Kelvin (Lumen is lower) but it starts to turn slightly blue or ice blue. 8000 Kelvin is less bright than 6000 Kelvin and it turns even more blue. Customers buy the 6000 Kelvin and 8000 Kelvin for a look versus 4300 Kelvin. They want to imitate the Escalade, BMW – Mercedes Benz HID style. It’s all good because 8000 Kelvin HID is still WAY brighter than halogen. 10,000 Kelvin and higher is very blue and purplish and is very difficult to drive behind. Hard to drive when the road is blue or purple….knowwhatImean?
Most of our customers who buy aftermarket projector headlights from us also buy an HID headlight replacement kit. We try and sell the headlights and HID together since the projector headlights usually use a different bulb size than factory headlight bulbs. At MyTightRide.com, we offer a discount on the HID kit if the customer also buys the HID kit bundled together with his projector headlights. In the case of the customer who has HID headlight bulbs already installed on his factory headlights, we simply replace the bulbs for him (at a nominal cost) that will work with his new aftermarket projector headlight he bought from us. The new HID bulbs usually plug right into his after market HID ballast so he doesn’t have the need to purchase a whole new kit cause his existing HID kit won’t work in his new headlights.
Some people think that the higher the Kelvin, the brighter the bulb. Not the case. All things being equal, 4300 Kelvin is the brightest HID available. When you start going away from 4300 Kelvin, the amount or power of light (Lumen) reduces whether you go down the spectrum (3300 Kelvin) or go up the spectrum (6000, 8000, 10,000, 12,000 or higher). Again, the higher the Kelvin doesn’t mean a brighter bulb.
If you have more questions about HID headlight replacement kits, please contact us at (714) 956-3801 or email at info@mytightride.com
Cadillac Escalade 2002-2006 Full Replacement Grille
New on the shelf are the 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005 & 2006 Cadillac Escalade full replacement grilles – chrome and black.
2002-2006 Cadillac Escalade Black Mesh Grille
Chrome Replacement Mesh Grille, Cadillac Escalade 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006
New in stock is the Cadillac Escalade 2002-2006 full replacement mesh grille in chrome housing or black housing. This is an easy grille to install and should take less than 30 minutes. Simply unbolt your factory grille and replace it with a MyTightRide.com Cadillac Escalade 2002-2006 full replacement chrome mesh grille or black mesh grille
2000-2006 Chevrolet Suburban Mesh Grille Install
This custom front grille install will work with the following vehicles:
Chevrolet Suburban 2000-2006 Billet Grille & Mesh Grille
Chevrolet Tahoe 2000-2006 Billet Grille & Mesh Grille
Chevrolet Silverado 1999-2002 Billet Grille & Mesh Grille
Today, we did a mesh grille install for a customer who has a 2004 Chevrolet Suburban. He wanted to change the look of his front grille. The install took us a little over two hours to complete (we made a lot of adjustments to the alignment of the grille for perfection), but it should take no more than 90 minutes from start to finish to install this mesh grille. Please note – the process to install a mesh grille on the Silverado/Suburban/Tahoe is similar to the process to install a front billet grille insert on these vehicles. If you have questions about this grille install or any other billet and mesh grilles we offer, please contact us at (714) 956-3801.
This Suburban mesh grille we installed today came from T-Rex. (By the way, it also comes black powder-coated!!) It fits on the 1999-2002 Chevy Silverado, the 2000-2006 Chevy Suburban and 2000-2006 Chevy Tahoe. It is a very nice, quality mesh grille and fairly simple to install. (As indicate earlier, this mesh grille install will be similar to the Silverado/Suburban/Tahoe front billet grille insert installation process.) The most difficult part about this mesh grille install was aligning the mesh pieces exactly in the center and installing the mounting parts correctly (really helps to carefully read the directions…AND FOLLOW THEM!).
Initially, you have to remove the Silverado/Suburban/Tahoe grille shell. The grille shell takes a good 10 minutes to remove, tops! The Silverado/Suburban/Tahoe front grille shell is held into place by one bolt, four fasteners near the center and two clips on the far outer-sides of the shell (between the headlight and parking lens). The one bolt sits at the top of the grille shell and is easily accessible once you remove the upper radiator shroud. The radiator shroud comes off once you remove those crazy, flimsy factory plastic fasteners. There’s about eight of the fasteners. Use care when removing them because you’re going to use them again when re-installing. Once the upper radiator shroud is removed, everything you need to take off or turn or pull to remove the factory grille shell is easily accessible. The single top bolt comes out with a small socket. The four fasteners need a long, small flat screw driver. You turn each fastener ¼ turn and you should feel the shell break loose from its foundation. Do this to the other three fasteners. The outside clips are kinda hidden behind the front fender. Just a firm grip and yank of each outer shell arm will pop out the outer arms of the grille shell. CAREFUL!! That’s pretty much all you’ll need to do to remove the shell. Take a look at the grille shell pic and you can see what those fasteners and clips look like. At this time, you can clean the front of the radiator/evaporator. Our Suburban had (what looked like) a swarm of dead bees stuck in it. We took a small screw driver and picked out all the dead bugs stuck in the evaporator core. This will affect how the radiator cools the vehicle and how well the evaporator is able to do its job.
Once the grille shell is out, place the grille shell on a work bench face down. Make sure you have a soft, clean and scratch-free surface to lay the grille shell on. We used a couple of large towels. This way, when you’re done cutting out the OEM black plastic grille, you can shake out the towels and have a clean, soft surface to work on, once again.
Having the proper tools makes this job a snap. Here is where a nice die grinder with a thin cutting wheel or Dremel works nicely. The directions call for applying masking tape to the edges of the grille shell to keep from scratching the chrome surface on the grille shell. But if you use extra caution and take it very slow when cutting the OEM black plastic grille, you really don’t need to mask off the chrome shell. You’re going to need to cut as much of the black plastic grille as you can. The more you can cut away, the easier it will be to install the new grille. Parts of the OEM black plastic grille were removed by pulling on the slots where it was attached to the shell. Some of the attachment points were not melted together by the factory so we could simply pop off the black grille and separate it from the shell. Once you’ve remove the black plastic grille, half of the job is pretty much complete.
T-Rex wraps their grilles with miles of plastic for protection during shipping (very smart!) so we had to unravel the plastic from the grille – which wasn’t an easy task since we left the grille sitting out in the hot sun for about a half-hour – the plastic almost heated up and melted into the mesh grille….duhhh……our new location doesn’t have install bays yet. We’re waiting for the building owner to finish our install bays….so now we have to do our installs outside.
After unwrapping the mesh grille pieces, we test-fitted the two grille pieces to the grille shell. Each mesh grille piece is a different size. You can’t interchange them. Once we were able to determine proper fit, we removed one of the mesh grille pieces and turned over the grille shell along with the single mesh piece. The instructions say to attach the small studs and brackets first. We attached the small studs to the back of the mesh piece and gently tightened them to the mesh grille frame with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Once the studs were firmly in place (not too tight so it didn’t damage the mesh piece), we added the bracket, washer and snugly tightened down the lock nut. We didn’t want to tighten the nut down completely in case we needed to change the alignment of the mesh grille piece.
Next, we fastened the longer studs into the mesh grille frame. This is where we made our mistake by not reading the directions. We just added a bracket, washer and lock nut to the long stud and tightened them down. WRONG! The mesh grille would not align in the grille shell correctly. What T-Rex asks for is to attach the long stud to the mesh frame, run one of the lock nuts onto the stud, then the L bracket, then the washer and top it off with another lock nut. The two lock nuts will be used for aligning the mesh grille frame. You may have to move the frame away from its mounting position by changing the location of the first lock nut. Once you have the mesh frame properly aligned, T-Rex asks to drill a small pilot hole into the grille shell thru the L bracket and run a self-tapping screw into the side of the L bracket. Having the screw in the L bracket keeps it from moving around. This process will make sense if you look at the install pics or the grille instructions. When the tall/long studs were attached and everything was properly aligned, we tightened the small brackets and checked for alignment. Alignment was PERFECT!! Now, wash…rinse and repeat on the other mesh grille piece (just kidding)! You’ll repeat these steps for the other mesh grille piece.
This customer also purchased a smooth billet Chevy bow tie. T-Rex also offers the Chevrolet billet bow tie with borders…both look WAY better than the gold OEM Chevy bow tie. And, it blends in nicely with the mesh grille and chrome shell. This is the time to install the billet bow tie….after the mesh pieces are in place. It’s a very simple process to remove the gold OEM Chevy bow tie. There are two one-way clips on the back side that have to be pressed on to remove it. Once the OEM Chevrolet bow tie is removed, you align the billet bow tie and determine which of the two holes on the back of the billet bow tie you attach the studs. We took out the billet bow tie and turned it over and attached the two studs – tightened the studs using needle nose pliers….not too tight…we didn’t want to pull out the threads. Place the new billet bow tie in its seat and put a washer and lock nut on the back of the bow tie to attach it to the grille shell. DONE with that!
Before you put the grille shell back on the vehicle, you may want to clean off the bugs, debris and hand prints off the grille shell, billet bow tie and mesh pieces. It’s easier to do it while on the bench versus on the vehicle. Our Suburban had 50,000 miles on it (pretty low for its age) but had a nice bug collection in the cracks and folds of the grille shell. We cleaned it up pretty good before we installed the grille shell with its new shiny pieces into the vehicle.
We aligned the grille shell into the front of the vehicle. The four fittings with their alignment dowels were first to go in. It took some adjustments on the four fittings since two of them moved from position after we removed the grille shell. With our screw driver, we were able to turn the misaligned fittings into proper position to accept the grille. With all four fittings in place, we tightened down the fittings by turning each one ¼ turn in the opposite direction when we removed them. Once they were in place, the outer clips went in…by GENTLY pressing on the arms. With the grille in place, we added the single bolt at the top of the grille shell. Next, the upper radiator shroud went on and the eight (or so) plastic fittings were added.
Finally, we again cleaned our finger prints off the grille shell and mesh pieces, shut the hood of the Suburban and stepped back to observe our handiwork. Very impressive! What a huge transformation. It looked TIGHT!! This Suburban looked TIGHT! Check out our pictures and enjoy! Make sure you brush after every meal!
Again, if you have questions about this mesh grille or any of our grilles and the installation process, please contact us at (714) 956-3801. Please…hold your criticisms of our poor attempts to humor.
